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Oct 15, 2024

The Best Stainless Steel Pans & Skillets of 2024 | Reviews by Wirecutter

By Michael Sullivan and Lesley Stockton

We’ve added an All-Clad pick variant that includes a helper handle to Other good skillets, but it’s out of stock until the end of April. Our Tramontina pick also comes in a version with a helper handle.

Whether you’re searing meat, stir-frying vegetables, or quickly reducing a pan sauce, a good skillet is an indispensable workhorse in the kitchen.

After more than 90 collective hours of research and testing since 2014, we still believe the tri-ply All-Clad D3 Stainless Fry Pan with Lid 12 Inch is the best skillet for your money.

It’s a durable pan that heats extremely evenly. No other pan gets the kind of raves this All-Clad model receives from professionals, enthusiasts, and home cooks alike. Yes, it’s expensive, but it will last you a lifetime, making it a great value.

This All-Clad skillet is a proven workhorse with superior heat conduction and durable construction.

Though a whole cut-up chicken crowds the pan, we were won over by the Tramontina skillet’s even heat distribution and comfortable handle.

We recommend only fully clad tri-ply pans (meaning a layer of aluminum is sandwiched between stainless steel and extends all the way to the rims).

A 12-inch pan has a large enough cooking area to sear a steak or to cook an entire broken-down chicken.

Sloped sides fit the curved wires of a whisk, which makes it easier to prepare pan sauces. A flared lip lets moisture evaporate quickly.

An oven-safe riveted metal handle allows the pan to go directly from the stovetop to the oven or broiler.

This All-Clad skillet is a proven workhorse with superior heat conduction and durable construction.

The All-Clad D3 Stainless Fry Pan with Lid 12 Inch’s substantial tri-ply construction distributes heat evenly, allowing you to sear foods with less risk of burning. The pan’s sturdy stick handle and lightweight design make it easy to maneuver when you’re sautéing or transferring it from the stovetop to the oven.

Out of all the pans we tested, the All-Clad skillet’s stainless steel exterior was among the most resistant to discoloration from heat, even after years of regular use. The generously sloped sides and bent lip allow you to easily whisk and pour pan sauces. It was also one of the few pans we tested that included a lid.

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Though a whole cut-up chicken crowds the pan, we were won over by the Tramontina skillet’s even heat distribution and comfortable handle.

Though the Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad 12-Inch Fry Pan has slightly steeper sides than our top pick, it still allows moisture to evaporate quickly, so seared meat and vegetables don’t stew in their own juices. It also browned chicken skin as well as pans costing almost twice the price. The Tramontina pan is a comfortable weight and has a rounded, ergonomically shaped stick handle that’s a pleasure to hold.

Cooked-on food released easily in our tests, but unlike the All-Clad skillet, the Tramontina pan developed some discoloration on the surface and underside of the cookware that was almost impossible to clean.

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Michael Sullivan, one of this guide’s writers, has spent over 70 hours researching and testing skillets for this guide since 2014. As a senior staff writer at Wirecutter, he’s written reviews for all kinds of kitchen equipment, including cookware sets and knife sets. Prior to joining Wirecutter, he was an editor at The International Culinary Center in New York City (now merged with the Institute of Culinary Education) and worked in the restaurant and food industry for a decade.

This guide builds on the work of Michael Zhao, who wrote the first version of this guide, and Wirecutter senior staff writer Lesley Stockton, who has been cooking professionally for almost 20 years. Collectively, we’ve interviewed various experts over the years, including chefs, cookbook authors and editors, culinary directors, a test kitchen manager, materials scientists specializing in metallurgy.

Michael and Lesley have also toured the All-Clad factory in Pittsburgh. Their step-by-step tour gave them a better understanding of how cookware is manufactured from start to finish.

A 12-inch skillet is perfect for making one-pan meals, searing steaks or other large cuts of meat, stir-frying, and pan-frying. Its flared sides are great for creating pan sauces and reductions. A fully clad stainless steel tri-ply pan allows you to do more high-heat searing and sautéing, and it’s more versatile because you can take it directly from the stovetop to the oven. (And you can prevent food from sticking to a stainless steel pan by following just a few basic tips.) If any or all of those cooking techniques are part of your repertoire, you should consider investing in a well-made skillet.

Perhaps you’re using an old hand-me-down pan that’s warped or has poor heat distribution (think hot spots and cold spots that brown your food unevenly). If that’s the case, you might want to think about upgrading.

If you already own a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, you may still want to consider getting a skillet made of tri-ply, fully clad stainless steel. Unlike cast iron, stainless steel doesn’t react with acidic foods, it heats up quicker, and it’s lightweight enough to toss vegetables for a stir-fry.

This guide focuses on stainless steel skillets, so we didn’t include any nonstick pans in our roundup (see our full guide devoted to nonstick pans here). Nonstick pans are best for cooking things like eggs or delicate fish fillets, but they’re not appropriate for high-heat jobs. The slick surface also can’t develop the fond (tasty brown bits that develop on the bottom of a pan) that’s integral for sauces.

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These are the most important qualities we looked for in a great skillet:

Our testing procedure has evolved since we started covering skillets in 2014, but here’s how we tested for our most recent update:

This All-Clad skillet is a proven workhorse with superior heat conduction and durable construction.

After six years of long-term testing, we still recommend the All-Clad D3 Stainless Fry Pan with Lid 12 Inch as our pick for the best skillet. Using a patented sandwiching process since 1971, All-Clad was the first company to make fully clad pans, and their expertise shows.

It distributes heat evenly. The pan has only about a 30-degree difference between the hottest and coldest spots (some skillets we tested had a temperature difference of over 80 degrees, as measured with an infrared thermometer).

Our cooking tests supported those numbers: Steaks seared evenly, chicken pieces browned deeply and consistently without burning, and white wine reduced without scorching, all in the least amount of time.

It’s easy to maneuver and comfortable to hold. We like the All-Clad skillet’s cast stainless steel handle, which is long, concave, and straight—like a metallic celery stalk mounted with the curve opening upward. (If you prefer rounded handles, we suggest looking at our runner-up pick, the Tramontina skillet.)

As with most of the pans we tested, the All-Clad pan’s handle stays cool on the stovetop, even when you’re searing (but not when the pan comes out of the oven, obviously). Our testers appreciated the angle of the handle, which afforded more control over tossing and flipping food.

It’s lightweight and balanced. Recall that a pan needs to have some heft to it to produce consistent heat, but if it’s too heavy, you’ll never want to use it. At just under 3 pounds, the All-Clad pan was one of the lightest skillets in our test group. That light weight aids in handling and cleaning, but it also allows for better temperature control.

It comes with a lid. Most of the skillets we tested didn’t (even though they cost the same—or in some cases, more). A lid is helpful for shallow braising or keeping food warm before you eat.

It cleans up beautifully. The All-Clad skillet was one of the only pans that came completely clean after washing and didn’t discolor from the high heat in our tests. Nearly all of the other pans we tested acquired a dark gray, iridescent patina inside and out after use.

This pan lasts. We’ve been using the All-Clad skillet regularly in our test kitchen since 2016, and it continues to perform well. Many members of our staff own this pan, as well as other All-Clad cookware, and they’ve confirmed that it heats evenly and cleans up well—even after over a decade of regular use.

All-Clad tri-ply pans also come with a limited lifetime warranty. The company will replace a defective pan, but not one that the owner has subjected to misuse or abuse.

It’s pricey. And that’s a fair grievance: Similar offerings from Calphalon and Tramontina cost a fraction of what the All-Clad pan does. But an All-Clad skillet will last you a lifetime, and it cleans up beautifully, even with heavy use. The All-Clad pan also comes with a lid, which is part of the reason it costs more.

The shape of the handle isn’t for everyone. Though most of our testers liked the All-Clad pan’s stick handle, some preferred the wide, round handle on the Tramontina skillet. As mentioned earlier, we recommend getting a feel for a pan’s handle in person before you decide what’s right for you.

We also wish that All-Clad would offer a version of this skillet with a helper handle. During sessions in our test kitchen with groups of testers whom we compensated for their testing feedback, we learned that some—including wheelchair users and those with wrist pain or limited strength and stability—found the pan difficult to hold using only the stick handle. Another All-Clad model, the D3 Stainless Everyday 3-Ply Bonded Skillet 12.5 Inch, includes a helper handle (and a more rounded stick handle). Or, you might consider our runner-up pick, the Tramontina pan, which is available in a version with a helper handle.

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Though a whole cut-up chicken crowds the pan, we were won over by the Tramontina skillet’s even heat distribution and comfortable handle.

The affordable Tramontina Tri-Ply Clad 12-Inch Fry Pan remains our runner-up pick. It’s a solid performer that heats almost as evenly as our main pick but costs significantly less.

It heats up pretty evenly. When heat mapping with an infrared thermometer, we measured a 30-degree difference between the hottest and coldest spots in the pan, which was about on a par with the All-Clad pan. Our flour test revealed that the Tramontina skillet heated mostly evenly across the surface of the pan, with a slightly darker area near one side of the skillet.

In our cooking tests, a whole cut-up chicken browned nicely in the Tramontina pan, but it wasn’t as consistent as in the All-Clad skillet. But for the money, the Tramontina pan is a solid performer.

It’s comfortable to hold, and some people prefer its handle over that of the All-Clad skillet. Though its rounded handle is bulkier than our pick’s, you may like it if you have larger hands. When we grasped the handle with a folded dish towel, we were still able to maintain control of the pan, without it slipping.

You can buy this pan with a helper handle. Tramontina offers a version of this exact pan with the addition of a helper handle, which makes carrying the pan or pouring from it easier.

It has a bit more heft than the All-Clad skillet, though. At just over 3 pounds, the Tramontina pan is slightly heavier than our main pick (which weighs 2 pounds 12.6 ounces). It’s still light enough to toss vegetables while sautéing, but if you prefer or require lighter-weight cookware, we’d recommend getting the All-Clad pan.

It will discolor slightly. Unlike the All-Clad pan, the Tramontina skillet will turn a bronze color after searing over high heat or if it’s placed in the oven. This is just an aesthetic issue, and it doesn’t affect the pan’s performance, but it’s something to keep in mind before you buy.

It’s durable, and backed by a lifetime warranty. When it comes to cookware, typically you get what you pay for, but this pan will probably give you at least 10 years of service, if not more. And if you do have any issues, you can contact Tramontina for repairs or replacements.

We recommend washing your stainless steel pans by hand. Although many cookware manufacturers say you can put your stainless steel tri-ply pan in the dishwasher, that doesn’t keep it looking like new. Your dishwasher may be good at releasing food from dishes, but you can’t expect it to release food that’s been seared onto your pan. Also, some dishwasher detergents contain harsh ingredients that can cause damage to your pans over time. In fact, All-Clad doesn’t recommend putting your pan in the dishwasher at all.

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Because fully clad tri-ply stainless steel provides the best combo of versatility and durability for the price, we exclusively tested skillets made from that material. However, it’s still helpful to know the difference between the most common types of cookware materials to ensure you know what you’re buying:

With a tri-ply pan, you get the even heat distribution of aluminum along with the durability and heat retention of steel.

If you want an inexpensive pan and our runner-up pick is sold out: The Goldilocks 12-Inch Skillet is included in our recommended budget cookware set. You can buy the pan on its own, but at this writing it costs more than our runner-up pick, the Tramontina Gourmet Tri-Ply Clad 12-Inch Fry Pan. It’s a great skillet, but the Tramontina pan performed slightly better overall in our tests and costs less.

If you want the quality of our top pick but with a rounded stick handle and a helper handle: All-Clad’s D3 Stainless Everyday 3-Ply Bonded Skillet 12.5 Inch features a handle that is slightly curved (similar to the Tramontina pan’s handle), which may be more comfortable for some people than the stick handle on the All-Clad skillet we recommend. It also has a helper handle, and it’s about 0.5 inch larger in diameter than our pick, offering just a tad more space. It performed as well as our top pick in our tests, but we noticed that a loose piece of metal rattled in the handle of one of the other pieces we tested from this line. We may have gotten a lemon, so we’ll continue to monitor buyer reviews to see if more people experience a similar issue with the handle.

If you want a high-end pan and our main pick is sold out: The Thomas Keller Insignia 12.5-Inch Commercial Clad Stainless Steel Sauté Pan (made by Hestan) heated evenly and performed on a par with our top pick, the All-Clad D3 Stainless Fry Pan with Lid 12 Inch. However, it costs over $100 more than the All-Clad pan at this writing, and it doesn’t come with a lid. The Thomas Keller Insignia pan is also about 9 ounces heavier than the All-Clad skillet, so it puts more strain on your wrist.

If you want a heftier pan with wider, rounded handles: The de Buyer Alchimy 3-Ply Stainless Steel Frying Pan distributed heat impressively evenly in our tests. It heated up the same as the All-Clad pan, but it was slightly better at retaining that heat. Like the Thomas Keller Insignia pan, this skillet is more expensive than the All-Clad pan and doesn’t come with a lid.

If you like your cookware to have some heft, this de Buyer model weighs over a pound more than the All-Clad skillet (though the added weight puts more strain on your wrist). If you have larger hands, you may prefer its wider, rounded handles over the All-Clad skillet’s narrower, concave handles. Its cooking surface is 0.25-inch smaller, but the sides of the pan are about the same height on both skillets. Unlike the All-Clad skillet, however, the de Buyer pan discolored a lot over high heat (but the discoloration shouldn’t affect the pan’s performance).

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The Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Stainless 12″ Skillet with Helper Handle was our former runner-up pick in this guide. However, upon further evaluation we found that the pan warped badly over high heat. The bottom of the pan bowed out so much, it wobbled on a flat surface.

The rivets weren’t secure on the Cooks Standard 12-Inch Multi-Ply Clad Stainless Steel Frying Pan with High Dome Lid, which caused the handle to wiggle. The pan also discolored in our tests, so we dismissed it.

The Viking 3-Ply Stainless Steel Fry Pan 12″ has a comfortable weight, but it concentrates heat mostly in the center of the pan.

The OXO Stainless Steel Pro 12 Inch Open Frypan has a rounded handle that’s comfortable to hold, but it didn’t heat as evenly as our picks.

We opted not to test the copper-core skillet from Material since we’ve ruled out five-ply pans after our previous tests showed how consistently slow they are to heat.

We were able to rule out the Misen 12″ Stainless Skillet after testing the Misen Saucier in our guide to the best small saucepan. Its five-ply construction made the pan slower to heat up, and its tubular handle was hard to hold onto. We’ve also watched this skillet go in and out of stock.

The Breville Thermal Pro Clad Stainless Steel 12.5″ Skillet is a behemoth that weighs almost 5 pounds. It’s fully clad and has an added disk of steel welded to the bottom. We found in our heat retention tests that it held onto heat a little too well, offering poor temperature control. Charlyne Mattox, cookbook author and food and craft director at Country Living, specifically mentioned the Breville pan during her interview with us, saying it got too hot for her liking.

The Liberty Tabletop Stainless Steel 11.5 Inch Fry Pan is more expensive than our top pick and doesn’t come with a lid, so we decided not to test it. We also prefer the flared sides of the All-Clad pan we recommend.

The Made In 12 Stainless Clad Frying Pan did well in our tests. However, we found the handle on the skillet to be slightly low; we prefer the higher angle of the handles on our picks.

Great Jones makes a hybrid deep skillet and sauté pan called the Deep Cut. However, after we tested their saucepan, the Great Jones Saucy, for our guide to the best small saucepan, we found the loop-shaped handle uncomfortable to hold, so we dismissed it.

We liked the Kitchenaid Tri-Ply Stainless Steel 12″ Skillet, but it didn’t heat as evenly as our picks. Some of our testers found the handle to be a little too low. However, it would make an affordable alternative to the rivetless Demeyere 5-Plus Stainless Steel Skillet, which costs significantly more.

The Viking Contemporary 12″ Fry Pan discolored severely the first time we heated it, and the sharply angled handle made control and handling difficult.

The Williams-Sonoma Signature Thermo-Clad Stainless-Steel Fry Pan has a small cooking surface and a very long handle, which we found awkward—especially on a crowded range. At 3 pounds 14.8 ounces, it was a bit hefty for some of our testers.

The Demeyere Industry 12.5-inch Stainless Steel Fry Pan with Helper Handle took twice as long as our picks did to heat up. At just over 4 pounds, this pan was also too heavy for some of our testers.

We didn’t test the All-Clad G5 Graphite Core Fry Pans because the largest size available is only 10.5 inches. It’s also more expensive than our current All-Clad pick, and it doesn’t come with a lid.

The exorbitantly priced Hestan NanoBond 12.5″ Open Skillet (it costs a whopping $450 at the time of publication) concentrated heat in the center of the pan. Our picks performed better at a fraction of the price.

The Hestan 12.5-inch Probond Professional Clad Stainless Steel Skillet heated almost as evenly as the All-Clad skillet and retained heat well, but it discolored and warped the first time we used it. We expect more from a roughly $250 pan. We also found the slightly higher angle of the handle less comfortable to hold than the All-Clad pan’s handle. Additionally, it’s over a pound heavier than our pick from All-Clad, which made it more cumbersome to lift.

This article was edited by Marilyn Ong and Marguerite Preston.

Charlyne Mattox, food and craft director at Country Living, phone interview, March 9, 2016

Geri Porter, test kitchen manager at Martha Stewart Living, in-person interview, March 3, 2016

Russ Parsons, food writer, email interview, April 25, 2013

Kellie Evans, test kitchen director at Saveur, email interview, April 1, 2013

J. Kenji López-Alt, managing culinary director at Serious Eats, email interview, April 22, 2013

Elvin Beach, associate professor of practice, Department of Materials Science and Engineering at The Ohio State University, email interview, March 29, 2022

Michael Sullivan

Michael Sullivan has been a staff writer on the kitchen team at Wirecutter since 2016. Previously, he was an editor at the International Culinary Center in New York. He has worked in various facets of the food and restaurant industry for over a decade.

Lesley Stockton

Lesley Stockton is a senior staff writer reporting on all things cooking and entertaining for Wirecutter. Her expertise builds on a lifelong career in the culinary world—from a restaurant cook and caterer to a food editor at Martha Stewart. She is perfectly happy to leave all that behind to be a full-time kitchen-gear nerd.

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Fully clad tri-ply:A 12-inch diameter:Sloped sides:Comfortable weight:A comfortable, oven-safe handle:Resistant to high heat:Easy to clean:We considered the shape and weight of each pan.We tested how evenly the pans heated and retained heat.We created a heat mapWe roasted a whole cut-up chicken in our finalists.It distributes heat evenly.It’s easy to maneuver and comfortable to hold.It’s lightweight and balanced.It comes with a lid.It cleans up beautifully.This pan lasts.All-Clad tri-ply pans also come with a limited lifetime warranty.It’s pricey.The shape of the handle isn’t for everyone.It heats up pretty evenly.It’s comfortable to hold, and some people prefer its handle over that of the All-Clad skillet.You can buy this pan with a helper handle.It has a bit more heft than the All-Clad skillet, though.It will discolor slightly.It’s durable, and backed by a lifetime warranty.Stainless steel tri-ply:Five-ply or seven-ply:Bargain stainless steel pans:Aluminum:Anodized aluminum:Cast iron:Copper:If you want an inexpensive pan and our runner-up pick is sold out:If you want the quality of our top pick but with a rounded stick handle and a helper handle:If you want a high-end pan and our main pick is sold out:If you want a heftier pan with wider, rounded handles:
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